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IJ^GUBAJORS /\ND BJ^OODERS. 

How to Build and Successfully Manage them 



TKe Gare^ Cure arAcl P^otectior^ 



-OF- 



POULTRY 



HoW to Bvjild \jp the gualitvj of the Flock. 



The kind of a House to Build; How to Build it, 



-AND- 



OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION 



BY JACOB Y(p%ip r/m^ 

>. ..^^d 



ARKANSAS CITY, KANSAS. 

COPYRIGHTED. 1895. 



qptA ' 






Entered , according to Act of Congress, in the year 1895, by 

JACOB YOST, 
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, in Washington. 



r\trodvictory 



In putting out this book I have kept in mind 
-.hose to whom it will be of most benefit. I 
lave had ten years experience in the raising of 
Doultry and if that experience is worth anything 
;o those interested in the business I will feel that 
I have done weU in imparting desirable informa- 
cion as well as gaining a profit to myself. 

The description of the machines and build- 
ings are carried out minutely so that the boys 
md girls can read them intelligently and by 
the assistance of the materials and a few tools 
they will find all the information necessary to 
carry out everything essential to a successful 
end. 

The Author. 



I 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



JKe Her\ as a JMoiAevj-maUer. 



The hen converts grass into greenbacks, 
grain into gold and for the sand and gravel she 
returns us silver. No other animal on the farm 
can compare with her. The horse and cow are 
heavy consumers and with the best economy- 
are more or less costly. Ihe hen yields the 
farmer more for the investment than any other 
animal, and gives him the least trouble. She 
asks nothing of him unless he chooses to orive it 
to her, but if he so chooses to supply her needs, 
she returns the compliment many fold and 
places at his disposal an article which is demand- 
ed in his domestic economy. The egg is con- 
verted into many uses. Its utility is so general 
that we often lose sight of its importance and 
fail to give the hen the great credit that is due 
her. The housewife has need ot the egg in 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



many ways and without it her table would be 
set with a limited variety. She must have eggs 
at all times of the year and at whatever cost. 
In her mind the poultry yard is an essential 
annex to the kitchen, and from it comes many 
delicate dishes that cannot be replaced by viands 
from any other source. The tgg has its place 
among remedial agents, and in this department 
has gained for itself no insignificant reputation. 
Like the song birds the hen is found wherever 
man sees fit to make his habitation, and how- 
ever distant in the frontier he may advance the 
hen is found as his companion. But unlike the 
song bird the hen, although possessed of wings, 
stays with him the year round, and when nature 
fails to give him food she places herself at his 
service and helps to sustain him. She asks but 
litde of him for her kindness. The waste from 
his table is often all that is required. With this 
she constitutes herself an establishment more 
valued than the mint, because she helps to pro- 
vide his essential needs. She is thoroughly a 
domestic animal, and to do her part in the 
domestic economy of the home, she must have 
protection and attention. 

As an investment for profit the hen must be 
made to lay eggs in winter as well as in spring 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



and summer. To have her do this she must be 
provided with those comforts that will pl.-.ce her 
in the proper condition for this service. These 
are healthy and comfortable quarters and good 
food. When a hen has to oret out in a snow 
storm for food or go without, is it any wonder 
that she does not lay during such weather? 
Yet many farmers wonder why they don't have 
eggs to sell when there is a good market for 
them. Hens will lay in winter time if they are 
surrounded with the conditions that fit them for 
it. It is important to have good layers, yet 
there is not as much importance attached to 
that fact as there is that they be properly treated. 
Different breeds of chickens are noted for dif- 
ferent qualities. Attention paid to the treatment 
of any breed is productive of more eggs than in 
the choice of a breed noted for laying. In feed- 
ing hens in winter give them as many of the sum- 
mer dishes as you can command, such as gravel, 
dust baths, greens of different kinds, fresh water 
not ice cold, meats, ground bone, charcoal and 
grits of different kinds. 

By the use of an incubator chickens can be 
hatched at any time of the year, and if the best 
market is in view, brine the chickens off in 
February and March. The best time to get 



10 Kn JU3AT0R AXI) BROODER. 



an Incubator and a brooder is in the fall. Mv 
experience proves to me that chickens hatched 
in an incubator and cared for in a brooder fn^m 
the middle of September till the middle of Nov- 
ember, will in this latitude feather out sufficiently 
Lef ;re cold weather sets in, and be ready to go 
int) ihe best market of the year as broilers. It 
is a known fact that with a brooder you can 
raise 90 per cent, of the chickens hatched while 1 
the hen raises but 50 per cent, of her brood. ' 
Then why bother with an old setting hen when 
the brooder will doubly discount her and be of 
less trouble? It is also a known fact that the j 
setting hens breed mites, lice and other vermin I 
and are the means of infecting the whole flock, 
while the incubator does not give a chance for 
vermin of any kind to infect its household. It 
will require fifteen hens to hatch the same number 
of eggs as an incubator of 200 egg capacity. 
These fifteen hens can be made to lay during the 
three weeks hatchino- time. While the incubator 
does the hatching the value of the (^<ro-s laved 
during this time will doubly pay for the oil used 
in running the incubator. After the hens have 
brought off their chickens they run with them 
from six to eight weeks, a period of time which 
is unprofitable and wholly wasted. The care 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 11 

of the Incubator and brooder combined Is not 
nearly so much as the care of the hens and their 
individual broads. With good eggs and proper 
care two hatchings by the incubator will pay for 
it and also the brooder. Your Investment Is 
then back and you have the appliances that will 
be serviceable for years, to carry on a business 
that calls for a very small expense. 

Tre Selection of Good Layers. 

Do not keep any chickens that appear stunted. 
They always degrade the appearance of a flock. 
When once a fowl becomes stunted It Is not fit 
for breeding purposes, and In fact Is not worth 
the keeping. Disease or a tendency towards 
disease Is hereditarv. Discard all hens that 
have a tendency to lay on fat, and retain those 
that under proper feeding will convert the food 
into eggs Instead of fat. If part of the flock 
convert the food into fat instead of eggs, the 
profit is consumed by the drones. No fowl 
should be retained that does not In some man- 
ner add to the profit of the flock. Much care 
should be exercised In selecting layers for breed- 
ing purposes every year, and in a short time the 
entire flock will consist of nothing else but lay- 



12 INCUBATOE AND BROODER. 

ers. A good layer has a small head a long neck 
and back, and a wedge shaped body. The 
eyes are bright and the comb and wattles are 
of a bright red, she is energetic and active, 
starting at every sound or motion with an 
elastic spring. A good layer always lays eggs 
that will hatch well. The very fact that she is 
a good layer shows that she is in a healthy con- 
dition. The result of good laying is the greater 
number of the eees are fertile, and the chickens 
will be strong and vigorous. A hen is profit- 
able until she is three years old. After that the 
number of eggs she lays will decrease. She 
should not be kept longer unless she is a 
"world beater," and is perfectly healthy. The 
hens that moult early should be kept in pre- 
ference to those that moult late. They will 
come into profit early in winter when eggs are 
yet a good price. 

Why do Hens Stop Laying in Cold Weather. 

The most profitable hens are those which lay 
at a time when eggs are scarce and consequent- 
ly dear. The thing to do is to provide condi- 
tions that will induce hens to lay at the desired 
time. Laying hens depend less upon the seasons 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 13 

^an they do upon the weather. This being 
the case all poultry keepers should provide com- 
fortable quarters for all kinds of inclement 
weather, both winter and summer. It is often 
the case that hens are in good condition and are 
laying regularly. When the first cold spell 
comes they suddenly stop laying. This is a 
matter that is worthy the attention of those 
interested in poultry and also has its effect upon 
the consumer. It is a question of no small 
concern when eggs are worth three cents a piece 
to have the hens suddenly quit business. Ai this 
time it is most desirable to have them continue 
fillincr the eo-or basket and if neccssarv take 
their vacation at some other time when eggs 
arc cheaper and the market is full. It seems 
strange after continuing to lay with due regu- 
larity for an indefinite period and when eggs 
are plentiful to stop because the price has 
advanced. There are causes for all this that 
are not real. It is not for lack of food as they 
often stop laying in a single day. It is not due 
to disease as the hens may be perfectly healthy 
at such a time. The true cause is for the lack 
of warmth. The heat of body comes by the 
digestion of food, and when they are exposed 
to the cold or inclement weather there is not 



14 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



enough oi i.e^t c^eneiaLv^d by their food to pro- 
tect them sufficiently. Egg production ceases 
under these conditions, Lecause all the vitality 
of the hen is required in protection from the 
cold. 

The remedy for this is to protect against the 
loss of animal heat. Hence there must be 
shelter from the cold and additional comforts to 
keep the conditions as the Ggg laying business 
requires. 

How TO Prepare For Winter. 

Every one concerned in raising poultry should 
be fully interested in this part of the business 
Many persons called breeders of poultry are not 
deserving of the name. Too often do we see 
rickety quarters for the chickens that would not 
serve as a protection from a hail stone, much 
less from a rain, wind storm or the snows of 
winter. Besides being rickety it is often found 
badly located, unclean and full of vermin, and 
yet the chickens are expected to maintain this 
as their quarters and put sheckles into pockets 
of their lord and master who so generously 
allows them an existence and a livini^ under such 
shameful conditions. It would be a credit to 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



such persons to kill off their poultry as an act of 
charity, burn down the house and go out of the 
business. If this is the condition of your chicken 
house, dear reader, don't let another day pass until 
you have set about providing better and more 
comfortable quarters for the bird that has been 
provided for you, and which serves you in a man- 
ner that deserves your best efforts and most 
devoted attention. Build a good double wall 
chicken house, well ventilated, with shed on south 
side, with plenty of glass for h'ght and sunshine 
for their winter quarters. After providing com- 
fortable quarters feed them warm food in the 
morninors. Throw fine erain in amone some 
straw to keep them working during the day. 
When the weather is cold never let them drink 
ice cold water. Always empty the drinking 
vessels in the evenine and never eive them 
water in the morning until they have had their 
mornine feed. Don't let the cold air enter the 
ventilators, cracks or other openings in stormy 
weather. If you wish the hens to lay in winter 
as they do in summer provide similar conditions, 
and they will do the work to your satisfaction. 
If the poultry is placed in these conditions they 
will amply repay for all trouble, and be a source 
of profit and plocisure to their owner. 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 19 



HoW to Make IrACvibator No. 1 

Capacity 300 Eggs. 



An Incubator is made up essentially of four 
parts and is built in the order here named . A ven- 
tilator, an egg chamber, a hot water tank, and the 
outer cabinet enclosing these parts. Use J's inch 
lumber, unless otherwise mentioned. Make a 
frame with front piece 33,/j^ inches wide by 4 feet 9 
inches long, back piece 3^ inches wide by 4 feet 
77-16 inches long, end pieces p/^ inches by 2 feet 
1 1 inches long. Nail front pieces on ends, put 
back piece between ends, making distance be- 
tween front and back pieces 2 feet 65.^8 inches, cor- 
ners square. Cover bottom with 1x6 flooring cut 
5 feet 4 inches long, making ends project 3^ 
inches. Draw crosswise two lines dividing space 
enclosed by frame into three equal parts, and one 
line lengthwise midway between front and back, 
In center of each square bore a ^ inch hole and 
cover each hole with a block i inch thick and 3 or 4 
inches square; and nail fast. Cut 4 pieces i inch 



20 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



by I inch by 2 feet 65/8 inces long. Place one 
in each end and one on each mark drawn 
across the floor. Fill in with saw-dust, level with 
the I inch pieces. Cover this again with ^ inch 
lumber and^nail it securely. Bore the holes on 
through the pieces last put on. Cover the last 
floor with building paper and fasten with 4 oz. 
tacks. In each hole put a tin tube from the 
upper side. Make 24 pieces ^ inch by ^ inch 
by 8 inches long. Nail two of these pieces 
edgewise and crossways of frame one inch apart 
so that the hole is between them and equally 
distant from their ends. Cover these pieces 
with a strip of zinc two inches wide and eight 
inches long, and tack it on so that the edges of 
the zinc are flush with the outer edcres of the 
wood strips. This forms an inlet for the cold 
air. Four inches on each side of the strip of zinc 
nail another strip of v/ood edgewise. These 
form a rest for the moisture pan. Place zincs 
and wood strips on the remaining holes in the 
same manner. From each projecting corner of 
the lower floor cut out a piece 3^ inches, 
square. 

Cut two boards 10 inches wide and 2 feet 
1 1 Vi inches longf, and one board 10 inches wide 
and 4 feet 9 inches long. The shorter boards 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 21 

are to be nailed to the ends ot tiie ventilator 
Frame with the lower edges lyi inches below 
the upper edge of the frame and the front end 
flush with the front board of the frame. The 
longest board forms the back and is to be nailed 
between the ends behind and next to the frame. 
Cut out 7/^ inche sufficient to let the upper 
cadges of the lo inch board be even. Drive 
nails so they will not be in the open space which 
forms the ^gg chamber; otherwise they will in- 
terfere with the eo-o- drawers. These three 
boards; form the ends and back of the ^gg 
chamber. 

Make six pieces for sides of the ^gg drawers 
3.^8 inch by i J^ inch by 2 feet 8 inches long, also 
six pieces for ends yi inch by 1 7/^ inches by 
173^ inches long. Bore a ^ inch hole ^ inch 
from the lower edore of the center of each of the 
end pieces. Saw a piece out from the lower 
edge up to the hole yi inch wide. This forms a 
slot for the turning hook. Put pieces together 
by nailing the side pieces on the ends. Make 
twenty-four pieces ^ inch by i]/^ inch by 2 feet 
8 inches long. Champer (take off corner) the 
upper edges to ^ inch on upper surface yi inch 
on edge. Six of these pieces are to be champ- 
ered on one edee on I v. Nail eieht of these 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



pieces on the bottom of the frames with tiie 
champered edges up; the outside strips being 
those with one champered edge. In nailing 
these strips on make the spaces between them 
equal. These champered edges being set in 
this manner form a coping in which the Ggg is 
made to roll. Make up the three drawers in 
this way using i inch brads. Make another 
rack, to go inside of this frame, 2 feet 4.^4 inches 
long by 17^ inches wide of ^ inch square 
pieces, with side pieces nailed onto end pieces. 
Set edgewise in this frame thirteen cross bars 
each j^ inch by 3/g inch with i3/^ inch space be- 
tween them. Before putting frame together 
lay off and cut out the slots to receive these 
crossbars. Set the bars so their upper edges- 
will be level with the upper edge of the frame, 
This is for the purpose of turning the eggs and 
for this a screw eye is fastened in each end op- 
posite the slot in the outer frame and is worked 
by means of a hook. This rack will have 2}^ 
inch space to move in and will thus completely 
turn the egg. After putting the. rack in place 
secure it by two small blocks on each side leav- 
ing a little play between blocks and rack. 

Put the egg drawers in place and mark places 
for the dividing boards. For this purpose make 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 23 

two boards 6j'8 inches wide by 2 feet 8 J^ inches 
long. Before putting in place nail a half inch 
square strip on each side on a line that will sup- 
port and make the drawers run level. Have 
these boards fit down on the paper neatly. It 
will be found necessary to cut a piece out of 
each lower corner. The upper edges form a 
support for the hot water tank. Secure these 
dividing boards by nailing through the back 
board of the e^e chamber. Thev had better be 
further secured by small corner blocks at the 
back corners and lower front corners, being care- 
ful to avoid interfering with the action of the 
drawer. 

Make four blocks i inch square and 5 inches 
long. Place one in each corner of the egg 
chamber resting on the slides on which the draw- 
ers run. These are to support the tank while 
securing it in place, and also gives the correct 
space for the Ggg chamber. For the frame 
that supports the tank make two pieces 5^ 
inches by 4 feet 9 inches, and two pieces 5^ 
inchs by 2 feet 65/8 inches. Put these together 
by nailing the sides on the ends. One end will 
come in contact with the pipes. Before nailing 
get the exact size of the pieces to be cut out. 
and cut from the lower edge of the board. Af- 



24 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

-ler fitting it iieciuy secure it to its place. Set 
the tank in its place and fasten by nailing 
throuo^h the flcinore with a few small nails. Have 
the tank and frame rest on the 5 inch block 
previously mentioned. In doing this it will be 
necessary to cut pieces from the 10 inch board 
to receive the pipes. The tank frame will pass 
inside of the 10 inch boards that form the egg 
chamber, and rest on the blocks. After the 
tank is properly fitted and leveled, nail it secure- 
ly to place. Avoid puncturing the tank with 
nails. You are now ready to mark and put on 
the legs. These are to be made of two parts, 
the upper or square part that is fastened to the 
body and the lower or rounded part that forms 
the support. These are fastened together by a 
wooden pin being made with the lower part, 
and the hole in which it fits neatly in the upper 
part. The object of making them in this way 
is to enable the cabinet to be passed through 
any ordinary doorway, by taking off the lower 
part of the legs. Make^the upper part 33^ in- 
ches square and 15 inches long. From the 
lower end of this part measure off 2^ inches 
on one side. Saw in 7/g inch and down from the 
top, taking out a piece 7/g inch thick and 12^ 
inches long. Do so with each of these pieces. 



I INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 25 

5et these blocks in corners that have been saw- 
td out, letting the lo inch board rest on shoulder. 
Nail these securely to their respective places. 

Make a piece 3^ inches wide and 5 feet 4 
nches long and nail to front of Ggg chamber 
lavincr the lower edcre even with the bottom of 
ower floor. Cut two pieces 3 inchs wide and 
65/s inches long and fasten one on each end of 
front by letting it rest on end of the long board 
just put on. Make the upper piece the same 
length as lower one and 5^ inches wide. Set 
this on the end pieces and fasten to the tank 
frame and upper part of the leg. These pieces 
form the frame for the glass doors that open in- 
to the eo^or chamber. Make three frames and 
fit with glass to fill this opening, one for each 
chamber. Hinge at the bottom, and have them 
small enough to leave a space of ys inch at top. 
While the hatching is going on these frames 
swell. 

We are now ready to put on the outside work. 
For the ends cut flooring boards 3 feet S/g inch 
long. For the back cut three boards 5 feet 
55/8 inches long. First put on the end boards 
making them flush with each corner. Then put 
on the back boards. Nail these securely. 
Make a door for front 145^ inces wide and 5 



26 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

feet long. Hinge this on its lower edge even 
with the lower floor. When open it will per- 
mit the chamber doors to open. This door had 
better be made with end pieces to prevent 
warping. Make two pieces 2^ inches wide 
and 145/^ inches long and fasten on the front 
corners and at the end of the door. Make one 
piece 5 inches wide and 5 feet 5^ inches long 
and nail alonor the front and above the door. 
The space between this outside case and the 
Ggg chamber is to be filled with sawdust firmly 
packed, and in case sawdust cannot be had use 
bran. To prevent this packing from spreading 
the back out put in a block midway between the 
ends with its upper end as high as the 10 inch 
board. Lay a sheet of building paper over the 
machine with edges flush with outside casing. 
To cover this top cut eight flooring boards 5 
feet 7^ inches long. This allows one inch pro- 
jection all around. In putting this top on be 
careful to have the hole for the inlet pipe prop- 
erly located. Under the projection put a j/g inch 
molding. If desired the top can first be put to- 
gether with strips and fastened to the case w^ith 
screws. In case it is desirable to remove it; 
this way of making it will be found more con- 
venient. Make four strips to fit in corners. 



INCUBATOR AND BEOODER. 27 

Make a frame i8 Inches by i8 inches out- 
side measurement of i inch by 4 inch lumber. 
Toe-nail this on top of machine about center. 
Make a cover for this box same size as inside 
measure and nail cleats on inside, making the 
lid sit flush with upper edges of box. Put cleats 
on lid to prevent warping. Bore five holes i ^ 
inch in the lid for ventilation. A molding may 
be put around the bottom of box. This box is 
known as the nursery. 

Make the lamp box 5^^ inches by 6^ inches 
inside, and have the back 8 inches wide and ex- 
tending upward 6)4' inches from the lower end 
of box. Leave the front open. Shape the side 
pieces same as shown in cut, and have them 
14 inches high. Fasten this box on the end of 
the machine under the center of the large pipe 
so that the back comes up against under-side of 
machine, and nail securely. Make an extra bot- 
tom 7/8 inch thick with handle to place under 
lamp to hold it up to place. 

! This machine should be well painted, and in 
this respect the artistic eye can exercise its 
fancy. 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 29 



|ioW to make tKe J4ot Air Brooder. 



Cut six legs 2X2 and 21 inches long. Leave 
7 inches at the upper end of these square and 
taper the balance of the distance down to i inch 
square at the lower end. Make the frame of 
I inch by 6 inch lumber. Cut two pieces of 
this frame 3 feet long and two pieces 2 feet 5^ 
inches long. Put these together by nailing the 
long pieces on the short ones. Put a leg in 
each corner of this frame, having the upper 
end of the leg flush with the upper edge of 
the frame. Put a bottom in this frame mak- 
ing the outside boards project i inch at one end. 
This projection receives the back end of another 
frame that stands in front and joining this one. 
Bore a 3 inch hole in the frame on the side that 
receives the lamp box, as shown in the cut. 
The lower edge of the hole must be i^ inch 
from the lower edge of the floor. In each side 
piece of this frame bore two 3/g inch holes; each 
hole ^2 inch from upper edo-e and 3 inches from 



30 INCUBATOR AND BROODER, 

the outside corner of the frame. The lamp box 
must be made with care. Cut two boards for 
the sides 8 inches wide, 19 inches on one edge 
and 18 inches on the other edore. Cut two 
boards 8 inches square, one for lamp seat and 
the other to go above the lamp and forms the 
bottom of the earth box. Bore a three inch 
hole in the center of the upper bottom to receive 
the hot air pipe. Fasten the upper bottom I 
with its lower edge 123^ inches above the low- 
er edge of the box. Enclose the front of the 
earth box with a board 4^ inches wide. Put a 
back on the lamp box extending from the lower 
edge 13 inches high. Nail cleats on the bottom 
of box as slides for the lamp seat. Make a door 
to fit on front reenforcing it with cleats to pre- 
vent the heat from warping it. Bore a 3 inch 
hole in the center of door and counter sink a 
glass on outside. This is to be done so the 
lamp can be seen from without. Bore five holes 
in the back, five in the front in the door and 
seven on each side of lamp box, close to the 
lower edee of earth box. Make the holes 
^ inch and have them on a line. Cover these 
holes on the inside with pieces of zinc 4 inches 
wide and resting on J^ inch strips. Have one 
of the longer edges fitted close up to the earth 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 31 

box. This is done to let the gas and hot aii 
escape and render the lamp safe to use out of 
doors. Bore twelve holes each ^ inch in lamp 
seat, three on each side and i inch from edg^e. 

Place thimble in side of frame and put heating 
pipe in place. Fasten lamp box to side of 
brooder as shown in cut and nail firmly from 
inside of heatinor box. Fasten the stool band to 
Boor of heating box. Put the 2 foot square 
shield with center over end of pipe, and its 
sdges parallel to the sides of box. Fasten the 
feet to the floor of the box. Cover this heatino 
box with a floor letting it project 2^ inches on 
each side, and 3 inches on the back end. Sup- 
port the projecting edges with blocks which had 
better be put in place first. The boards foi 
this floor must be cut 3 feet 3 inches long. The 
Boor does not project over the front end that 
receives the other section of the brooder. 
Around the three sides of this floor nail a board 
4.5^ inches wide and ^ inch thick, leaving the 
front open. 

Make a frame for the front section on feeding 
box the same size as the heating box frame 
Put two legs in front corners and let the other 
end rest on the projecting boards of the lowei 
floor of heating box. Put a floor on this frame 



82 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



leaving the sides project the same as upper 
floor of heating box. Cut two one inch boards 
3 feet long with one end 12 inches wide and the 
other 7 inch wide. Nail these boar^ls on the side 
of this floor with straight edges flush with the 
lower edore of floor. Put a board in the back 
or higher end of this box, having the upper edge 
flush with the 12 inch corners. This board 
must be 7 inches wide, thus leaving a 4 inch 
space as a pass way from brooder to feed box. 
Put in a front board 7 inches wide, first cutting 
a small door in the under edge 4 inches by 20 
inches and hanging it on the upper ^dge of 
opening. Add the necessary fixtures to control 
it. Over this box and on the higher end nail 
a board 12 inches wide and three feet 2 inches 
long. To this board is hinged the sash lid as 
shown in cut. Make this lid 2 feet i inch bv 
3 feet 2 inches with a center piece to support 
two panes of glass. 

For the runway cut two pieces i inch by 2 
inchs by 3j^ feet long. Cut the ends of these 
pieces so they will fit against the feed box and 
on the ground. Cut enough }4 inch boards 
2 feet 7 inches long to cover these pieces cross- 
ways. Nail boards on having the ends flush 
with the outer edge. On the upper surface of 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 83 

these boards naii ^/^ inch strips runnino- the sdme. 
direction as the boards, and 2^ inches apart. 
Bore two holes on each side to receive the 
standards of the sideboards, lettino- the holes 
pass through floor and through the 2 inch pieces. 
Make side boards and put on as shown in cut. 
Fasten the three sections together with 3 inch 
screen door hooks. We have yet to make the 
top for the brooder. The roof of this top is 
made with an under floor over which is the tin 
roof with a space between the two. First cut 
two pieces for rafters 3 feet 2 inches long i j^, 
inch at each end and 2 inches in center, and 
one piece for the third rafter of )^ inch lumber 
the same length, 4 ^^ inches at the ends and 4^ 
inches at center. Cut two pieces of ^ inch 
lumber 4^ inches wide and 3 feet 4^ inches 
long for side pieces, nail these pieces w^ith an 
end of each on the ends of the widest rafter. 
Put one of the other rafters half way and the 
third one at the other end with the upper edges 
of rafters in line and flush with side boards. 
The floor of 3^ inch lumber goes on the under 
side of these rafters and to support the end at 
the wide rafter it will be necessary to nail a strip 
to that rafter, and then nail the floor to the strip. 
There must be a short leg- in each corner n\ 



34 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

this floor for support. On the end that has the 
wide rafter bore a ^ inch hole in each corner 4 
inches from the end and 4 inches from each side. 
In each of the other corners bore similar holes 4 
inches ^rom sides and lyi inch from end. Nail a 
block over each hole and bore holes through 
these blocks to give a better support to the legs. 
The legs must be 4 inches long with i 5^ inch 
pin to fit the hole. Nail them in place. Fill 
in above this floor with sawdust even with the 
top of the rafters and cover with a tin roof 
nailinor the same around the ed^es and across 
the middle rafter with three penny fine nails. 
Cover the under or smooth side of this bottom 
with two thicknesses of cotton batting and this 
again by one thickness of canton flannel with 
the cotton side out. Nail these down with 4 oz 
tacks. Bring edges out flush with outside edges 
of legs and fit it neatly around the legs. Cut 
enough canton flannel 6 inches wide to go once 
around and 4 times the longway of the bottom. 
Fold the cloth with the cotton surface out and 
cut in from edges every 3 inches and within y^ 
inch of the fold. Open the fold and tack the cloth 
to place by putting the tacks through the crease. 
The four pieces for the center should divide the 
space equally. Tack every 3 inches opposite 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 35 



the cut. After having thus finished this top set 
it over the hot air chamber with the legs stand- 
ing inside of the three sideboards, and is left 
moveable so the brooder can be cleaned. 
Above the end that fit against the feed box nail 
a tin gutter to drain off the rain. 

In case it is desirable to apply heat to the 
feeding box an extra floor can be built under 
it and filled in with sawdust, or a second lamp 
and lamp box can be applied in the same man- 
ner as the one used with the brooder box. 

If desirable to use a hot water brooder in- 
stead of a hot air brooder the foreooine describ- 
ed machine can be easily converted into such 
by making a water tank to fit in the hot air 
chamber and fit a lamp box under the center. 
The tank is to be the same length and width as 
box and 3 inches deep, and the floor over it of 
1/2 inch lumber. Have the funnel shaped inlet 
and the faucet outlet conveniently placed in the 
back end. The lamp box must be 10 inches 
square on the inside and 15^ inches long. On 
a line i^ inch from upper end bore 28 holes 
3/^ inch size, with eight of them on each side 
and six holes each on back and front. Cover 
these holes on the inside with zinc 4 inches 
wide tacked on l/^ inch strips. Have the ends 



36 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

of the zinc meet and their upper edges flush 
with the upper end of the box. The lamp seat 
must sit on cleats fastened to the lower edge 
of box, and be movable. In this seat bore 12 
holes I inch from the edcres and three of them 
on each side. Put door on with hinges and 
means of fastening. In the center of door cut 
a 3 inch hole and countersink a glass on the 
outside. Cut a place in center of floor the size 
of lamp box so that when the box is put in place 
the end will be flush with the upper surface of 
tlie floor and the tank will rest on it. 



,^ 



INCUBATOR AND BlIOODER. 39 



HoW to Make a GombiiAcd Ipvcviba- 
tor and Brooder ]4o\jse. 



Dig a basement north and south suitably lo- 
cated 83^ by lo^^ feet and 4j^ feet deep. In 
making the frame use 2x4 Inch lumber unless 
otherwise mentioned. For the mud sills frame 
four pieces, making the outside measures 8 feet 
by 10 feet. Have the roof slant to the south. 
Make the north corners 14 feet high and the 
south corners 12 feet high. Set two studding 
on the east and on the west sides dividing the 
space equally. On the north and south sides 
set two studdings in each, so the joists that are 
to be nailed to them will be 3 feet apart In the 
clear. Put in joists north and south using 
2 inch by 6 Inch pieces. Gain in the ribbon 
board on studding so the lower edge of the joist 
will be 6)^ feet from the bottom of the base- 
ment. Put In two headers at the north end of 
the joist that are 3 feet apart, so as to form the 



40 INCUBATOE AND BEOODER. 

walls of a hot air chamber 3 feet by 4 feet. 
This is for the brooder. Close the under side 
of this box with flooring. Bore a 3/g inch hole 
in each corner as near the upper edge of the 
joist as possible. This is done to draw the heat 
to the upper floor, and to the corners of the 
brooder. Bore a 3 inch hole in one of the joists 
that forms the side of this box, with its center 2 
feet from either end of the box and the lower 
edae of the hole i ^ inch from the lower edee 
of the floor. Make a lamp box for the brooder. 
Cut two boards 8 inches by 8 inches, one for 
under the lamp and the other for above it. 
Bore a 3 inch hole in the center of the upper 
one, for the heating pipe to come down through 
to meet the lamp flue. Measure up 12 j4 inches 
from the bott' m of the lamp box to nail the 
upper bottom in. Nail the back on crossways. 
1 his will be 1 2 l4 inches hi^h from lower end 
of box. Put a cap on the front crossways 
634 inches wide. Fasten the zinc thimble in 
the 3 inch hole of brooder chamber for the 
heating pipe to pass through. This is neces- 
sary to make it fire proof. Put in heating pipe 
and bring lamp box up to place and fasten by 
nailing to the joist. Now fill the box above: 
the lamp and around the pipe with earth, to! 

,. I 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 41 

make the brooder fire proof. This box needs 
no door. Nail cleats on lower end of box for 
lamp shelf to slide on. Set a 2 foot square 
shidd with its feet restinor on floor of hot air 
chamber and its center over the mouth of the 
pipe, and its edges parallel with the sides of the 
chamber. The purpose of this shield is to 
scatter the hot air towards the sides of the 
chamber. Lay the floor of the room and at the 
same time mark on the floor the exact location 
of the hot air chamber. Make the brooder top 
by first making a frame 3 feet by 4 feet of i inch 
by 4 inch boards. Put on the inside of epxh 
corner a leg 8 inches long letting the top come 
flush with the upper edge of frame. Put a solid 
bottom in this frame with flooring cut 4 feet long, 
smooth side down. Cover the under or smooth 
side of this bottom with two thicknesses of cotton 
batting and this again by one thickness of canton 
flannel with the cotton side out. Nail these down 
with 4 oz. tacks. Bring edges out flush with 
the outside edges of legs and fit it neatly around 
legs. Cut enough canton flannel 6 inches wide 
to go once around and four times the long way 
of the bottom. Fold the cloth with the cotton 
surface out and cut in from edges e-very 3 inches 
and within a ^ inch of the fold. Open the fold 



INCUBATOR AND BROODEE. 



and tack the cloth to place by putting the tacks 
through the crease. The four pieces for the 
center should divide the space equally. Tack 
every 3 inches opposite the cut. Put a No. 5 
screw eye in the top of each corner post. In 
each eye fasten a rope. Bring ropes together 
and fasten, thereby forming a fast^^ning for a 
rope to be used in raising and lowering the top. 
Pass this rope through a small pully in the roof 
directly over the center of air chamber, and 
down to the side of the room. Secure the rope 
to a small windlass or other convenient means 
by which the brooder top may be raised or low- 
ered. Fill the top or frame with sawdust. 
Cover with light strips to keep the chickens 
from scratchinor it out. Put the outside or 
sheeting on beginning at the bottom. It is not 
necessary to nail the lower boards, but instead 
pack dirt behind as the boards are put in. As 
soon as you can get at the boards to nail them 
do so. Finish the outside up to a line with the 
floor. The south side is to be filled with glass 
beginning i foot above the floor line and extend- 
ing- 1 feet hi^h and across the end of the build- 
ing. Fit glass frames in the center of the east 
and west sides one foot above floor line, 3 feet 
by 4 feet. Finish sheeting the entire building 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 43 

making a doorway on (;ne side into the base- 
ment between the middle studdinor. Fit a door 

o 

neatly to this place. Make a door into the 
upper room, on the same side as the lower 
door, but near the south corner. Put on the 
roof. On the south side and in the board 
under the center of the glass frame cut a small 
door 6 inches by 8 inches. This is to let the 
chickens out and in. The chicken yard should 
be 8 feet wide and at least 32 feet long. As a 
fence for this yard, first fix a base board around 
it I foot wide -^nd to the upper edge of this nail 
on 2 foot laths i^ inch apart. 

The incubator should sit in the basement on 
the south side of the building, and will assist, 
when in use, in keeping the building comfortable. 

This buildine is laree enough to accommodate 
the No. I incubator. If desirable to keep the 
incubator in operation it will be best to set the 
brooder to one side and build in another one, 
separating them by a partition fence. Also have 
a partition fence extend through the center of 
the yard. By making the building two feet wid- 
er it will accommodate two No. 2 incubators. 

The foregoing description gives the essential 
parts in the construction of this building. As to 
how it shall be finished I leave with the builder. 



44 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

He may, as it pleases him, add window casings, 
weatherboarding, ceiling, filling spaces with saw- 
dust; painting, ventilating, preserving the under- 
ground lumber as per recipe, some of which are 
essential to comfort and others to the neatness 
and good appearance. If made thoroughly com- 
fortable you may rest assured it will do the work 
of hatching and raisino- chickens in the coldest 
weather if properly attended. The house is well 
adapted to the business for which it is built, and 
whoever undertakes the building- of it may feel 
confident that it will do him good service, and 
the investment will be returned to him in a short 
time. 

Those interested in the raising of chickens 
will readily see the advantage of building such a 
one as described in preference to any out-door 
brooder. This building affords protection dur- 
ing stormy weather. During bad days the chick- 
ens want freedom, exercise and food, as well as 
on good days, when they can be in the yard to 
obtain them. In this house they can have all of 
these and have none of the unpleasant features 
of bad weather. At the season of the year when 
this business is the most profitable, is the time 
protection must be had from bad weather. The 
out-door brooder of whatever manufacture does 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 45 

not afford this and at the samt^ time o'ive the 
chickens the desired room. It is these require- 
ments that has developed the combined house 
and brooder, and of which I take pride in pre- 
senting to the readers of this Httle book. Any 
one taking- the pains to investigate will find that 
the upper half of this house will not cost any 
more than the ordinary out door brooder and 
in addition it affords a room 8 feet by lo feet 
which is mxuch more desirable for the health 
and comfort of the chickens, and the conven- 
ience of handlino- them. 






46 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 




INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 47 



HoW to Bvjild a GKicker\]4ovjse. 



The following description is of a chicken 
house twice the size of the one shown in the 
cut. This building has been thoroughly tested 
and I have never found an arrangement that 
has equalled this for health, comfort and good 
results in the quantity of eggs received. The 
main building is 8 feet wide by i6 feet long, 
with roof slanting to the north; and outside 
walls and roof in good weather-proof condition. 
Make the north wall and both ends of 2 inch by 
6 inch studding, with north wall 5 feet high. 
In the rest of the frame use 2 inch by 4 inch 
studding. The south wall should be 7 feet 
high. The ends and north side should be 
boarded up inside. First put on an 8 inch 
board and fill this space in with mortar and 
rock. The rest of the space is to be filled with 
sawdust. If built in this manner the rats can- 
not get up into the sawdust from below. The 



48 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

under side of the rafters should be ceiled and 
^lled in the same manner. In putting on the 
/oof leave places for ventilator pipes on the low- 
er edge. A ventilator is required in the center 
of every 8 feet, and located on the north side. 
These ventilators should be made 4 inches 
square in the clear, and should begin 10 inches 
from the floor and extend 2 feet above the 
highest point of the roof. Along the north side 
oi this room arrange the perches by putting a 
knee or bent every 5 feet, having them 20 inches 
high and extending 4 feet from north side of 
room. On these lay four pieces i by 4 inches 
the entire length of room. This will accom- 
modate 150 chickens, the capacity of this house. 
It will be found convenient to put under this 
perch a floor slanting to the south as shown in 
the cut for convenience of cleaning. The object 
of thus -arranging this perch is the convenience 
for chickens getting on and off, and the protec- 
tion from severely cold weather by keeping them 
close together. Large and heavy chickens have 
trouble getting on and oft high perches, and are 
often injured in doing so. 

The nests are arrancred on the south side 
of this room. Leave 2 feet at one end for the 
doorway. The bracket for supporting the nests 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 49 

should be 2 feet high and project 20 inches from 
the studdincr. Make the nest boxes for this build- 
ing in two sections for the convenience of clean- 
ing them. The bottom of the nest boxes should 
be a board 1 2 inches wide, and the nests divided 
by partition boards making the boxes 10 inches 
by 12 inches. The partition board should be 18 
inches high at the back and slanting to 10 inches 
at the front. On the front of these nail a 4 inch 
board, letting it rest on the brackets. Cover the 
nests with a board which should have its upper 
surface perfectly smooth to prevent the chickens 
from resting on the boxes. An opening will be 
left in the front of each box 7 inches by 10 inches 
as an entrance. Nail a 6 inch board on the 
brackets flush with their front ends as a runway. 
Next, build a shed 10 feet wide, on the south 
side, the entire length of this building and ad- 
joining it, as shown in the cut. The south side 
should be 5 feet and the rafters should join the 
main building- 6 feet from the sill. Have the 
door in one end near the door that enters the 
main building. Board up both ends, leaving a 
place in each for a window about 2 feet by 3 feet. 
The south side should be boarded up 2 feet high 
and the remaining distance be fitted the entire 
length of building with movable glass frames. 



50 • INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

In summer these frames can be taken out and 
the opening fitted with screens, thereby render- 
ing the building- more comfortable. Ceil the roof 
on the under side and fill in with saw-dust. Cov- 
v/ith corrugated board roofing and batten the 
joints. Protect this roof at once with a good 
coat of paint. Put boards on the south side of 
the partition wall, and have the lower one hinged 
on its upper edge, in sections of 8 feet the entire 
length of the building. Have a similar door on 
a hne vvlth the nest boxes, 6 inches wide for the 
convenience of o-atherinor the ecrcrs. In board- 

<_> o o o 

ing up the space above the rafters, put in a 
small window 2 feet by lo inches opposite each 
ventilator. On the south side of this room 
there should be a dust bath box 3 feet by 4 feet 
and 8 inches deep. Have one for every 8 feet 
of the length of the building. The yards can 
be any size suitable to the surroundings, and 
the fences of whatever material desirable. 

There are several objects obtained in a build- 
inor constructed in this manner. The chickens 
are best protected from inclement weather. No 
matter how uncomfortable it may be out of 
doors, the chickens are comfortaly housed in 
this building and at the same time are avoiding 
the disagreeable features of having to stay 






INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 51 

during a bad day in the same room in which 
they roost. Much comfort is gained both in 
winter and in summer by having the rafters 
ceiled and filled in with sawdust. While it is 
essential to protect from inclement weather it is 
also necessary to have good light and good 
ventilation for the best health of the chickens. 
More heat can be gained from the sun by hav- 
ing the south wall stand out at the bottom so 
the p-lass can receive the ravs of the sun more 
directly. This will be an advantage in winter. 
As to the manner in which the building shall 
be finished is a matter of choice with the builder. 
VVeatherboardino- roofincr, door casinors, window 
casings, painting and foundation are features that 
are subject to the liking and means of the builder. 



52 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 




HO'T WATER TANK. 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



53 



Building Material Bills. 



LUMBER FOR NO. 1 INCUBATOR. 

8 pieces flooring 1 inch by 6 inches, 16 feet long. 

1 piece popular board 1 inch by 10 inches, 12 feet long. 

1 " " " 1 " " 16 " 16 " 

^ n u a 3^' u u ^2 " 16 " " 

1 " 4 inch by 4 inch 12 feet long for legs. 



LUMBER FOR NO. 1 BROODER. 

2 boards 1 inch by 12Tnch 12 feet long, finished hard pine. 
5 pieces flooring 1 inch by 6 inch 16 feet long. 
4 lath. 1 piece 2 inch by 4 inch, 12 feet long. 



LUMBER FOR INCUBATOR AND BROODER HOUSE. 

10 pieces 2 inches by 4 inches, by 12 feet. 

14 " 
16 " 
10 " 



8 " 2 


<( 


" 4 


2 " 2 


a 


" 4 


2 " 2 


a 


" 4 


1 piece 1 inch 


" 4 


1 " 1 


n 


u 4 


1 " 1 


u 


" 6 


4 pieces 2 


(( 


" 6 


1 piece 2 


ii 


" 6 



14 
16 
10 



500 feet stock boards ; 100 feet roofing boards ; 110 feet floor- 
ing 1 inch by 6 inches, 16 feet. Batting suflicient to cover 
cracks of the roof. 



54 INCUBATOH AND BROODER. 

LU.UBER FOR OHICKEN HOLjBE 8 BY 16 lEET WITH 
SHED 10 FEET WIDE. 



8 


pieces 2 inches 


by 4 inches 


by 10 


feet. 


5 


" 2 '' 


u 4 .. 


" 12 




2 


a 2 " 


" 4 " 


" 14 




5 


u 2 " 


u 4 u 


" 16 




2 


a 2 " 


u 4 a 


" 18 




2 


" 2 " 


" 6 " 


" 16 




2 


" 2 " 


" 6 " 


" 10 




5 


U -1 u 


u 4 u 


" 16 




3 


(( 1 u 


u g u 


" 18 




2 


1 " 


" 12 " 


" 14 




1 


piece 1 " 


" 16 " 


" 14 




1 


1 " 


" 12 " 


'• 16 




1 


" 2 " 


u 4 u 


•' 20 




For roofi 


ng. 10 feet boa 


■ds 160 feet ; 


12 feet 


boards 176 ■eet 


or siding, 


400 feet. 










tinTor"': 


NC UB ATOl 


1 NO. ^ 


I. 



A tank 2 feet 6V2 inches wide by 4 feet 6W inches long by 
b% inches deep'with ^^ inch flange on upper edge all around. 
On the bottom inside and crossways have 3 ribs 1 inch high 
dividing the space equally. These brace the bottom and 
form supports for the pipes. Have the coil of pipes made as 
shown in the cut. The center pipe is 2}4 inches and the 
smaller ones Hi in hes. The large pipe outside is 4 inches 
and is continuous with the sides of the tank. The 2}4 inch 
pipe comes down through the center of the 4 inch pipe and 
the space between the two is closed at the lower end. This 
allows the water to come down to the lamp. In the '2}^ inch 
pipe where it forms the "T" with the cross pipe of same size 
at the farther end, put a piece of tin so the current of hot 
air will be divided equally. The upper ends of elbows on 
small pipes should be a % inch free opening. After the 
pipes are properly fitted put on a top over all and solder it. 
Leave an opening 1% inches near one corner for the inlet pipe. 
This pipe is 4 inches long with X inch opening, with screw 
top and a flange just belov. the top 1 inch wide and is fastened 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 55 

in the wood top that goes v\er the tank. The large elbow is 
7)2 inches from throat to tank and 2^0 inches from throat 
to lower end. Fit the 2^ inch pipe so that it is in the center 
of the 4 inch pipe and their lower ends even. The small el- 
bows stand 7^2 inches out from tank. The faucet and con- 
nection is at the lower dge and at one corner, and is 6^ 
inches from tank to the cut-oflF. Have 6 pipes %inch open- 
ing 21^ inches long with a flange \ inch on one end. Also 6 
galvaniz'd iron 8 Inches by 12 inches by ^^ inch deep; also 
6 strips of zinc 2 inches by 8 inches. 

TIN FOR BROODER IN BROODER HOD ^E. 

A square piece of sheet iron 2 feet each way, with ^4 inch 
edge turned up. Plave a 4 inch support rivited on each cor- 
ner with the end turned for a foot so that the sheet will stand 
4 inches fi-om the floor. A 2% incii elbow pipe, one end 18 
in:.hesfrom throat to end and the other 2;^ inches from throat 
to end. A zinc thimble 3 inches in diameter and 2 inches 
long to go in heating box for hot air pipes to go through. 
Put a flange ^ inch wide on shwt end %_ inch from the edge 
to keep dirt from falling on the lamp. On the long end of 
pipe fit a stool band so it will support the pipe, keeping it ^i 
inches from floor. 

The same pai-ts are required in the out-door hot air brood- 
er, wit a the addition of sufficient tin to cover the roof 3 feet 
% inch wide and 2 feet 113^ inches long. Turn up ^ inch 
that goes up against the feed box. A strip of tin 3 feet 1 inch 
long and 3 inches wide broke in center lengthways to form 
an eave trough and is tacked on the back end of feed box 
over the line where the brooder joins it. 

For the hot water brooder there will have to be in addition 
to the above a tank 2>^ feet by 2}4 feet by 3 inches deep of 
galvanized iron with t p soldered on. The inlet pipe must 
be elbow shaped and lli inch size, 7^ inches from throat to 
the tank, the other 1 inch, or long enough to receive a screw 
top. The outlet at the lower edge of tank and 4 inches from 
tank to the cut-oflf. Both to be situated in th/ same en'd c( 
tank. This is for the No. 1 brooder. 



56 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

The lamp best suited for these incubators and brooders is 
a plain glass fount with handle standing i inche? high from 
bottom to top of brass collar. Use an alabastino plain top 
ilue, and the best No. burner. 



SUPPIJES AND PARTS. 



In case you cannot get all the parts required conveniently 
I will furnish them delivered at the depot here properly pack- 
ed for shipping at the following prices: 

Egg drawer $ .40 

Rack for drawer 40 

Egg drawer and rack 75 

Outside door, panneled 75 

Corner strips, per set of 4 40 

Legs, per set of 4 1.0') 

I^amp box and lamp seat 40 

Nursery box 50 

Tank for No. 1 10.00 

Tank for No. 2 8.00 

Tank for No. 3 5.50 

Tank for No. 4 3.25 

Lamps complete 50 

Thermometer ( tested ) .75 

SUPPLIES FOR BROODER. 

Lamp box .$ .75 

Shield 30 

Heahing pinej complete 35 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 57 



I 



HoW to Gare for ar\ Incubator. 



The lamp should be well cared for and kept 
in good condition never allowing it to become 
blackened or smoked. Before putting in the 
eggs set the machine to working two or three 
days, and bring the temperature up to the 
required degree, and be sure you have every- 
thing fixed to hold it at that point. Attend the 
incubator regularly. Do not open the egg 
drawer any oftener than is required. Do not 
let the moisture pans go dry. When the chicks 
are breaking through the shell do not open egg 
drawer oftener than once in six hours. The 
incubator should be In a quiet place free from 
noises particularly those that jar and cause 
things to vibrate, and free from draughts. A 
basement or cellar that is free from dampness 
is the preferable location. Wherever It sits 
have it protected from any cold air while In 
operation and particularly when the egg drawer 



58 TNOUBATOK AND BROODEE. 



is open. Have the tank filled to 53/^ inches of 
boiling water. No. i incubator takes about 25 
gallons, No. 2 about 16 gallons, No, 3 about 10 
gallons and No. 4 about 5 gallons. Set the 
lamp to burning and see that you can keep the 
temperature at 103 degrees. The first three or 
four days a temperature of 102 degrees will do, 
but then get it up to 103 degrees. The tem- 
perature should not vary more than four degrees 
either way. In cold weather if you have any 
trouble in keeping the temperature up to the 
required degree, draw off two or three gallons, 
reheat it and put it back again. 

From the i8th day until the chicks come off 
keep the temperature at 104 degrees. Care 
should be taken not to let it get over 104 degrees 
for any length of time, as over heating causes 
deformed chicks. Care should be taken not to 
jar the eggs. 

Place all the eggs on their sides lengthwise 
between the bars of the moveable racks and at 
the same time let the Ggg lie in the groove of 
lower frame so that as the rack is moved it 
causes the e^e to roll back and forth on its side. 
Place the thermometer between the two front 
rows of eggs so you can see the temperature 
through the glass door. Place the bulb of the 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 59 

thermometer half way down between the eggs, 
so you get the right temperature at the center 
of the eo-o-. The thermometer should He so 
that the top end will be about two inches higher 
than the bulb. 

The turning of the eggs is done by the use 
of a wire hook without opening the inside door, 
place the hook through the hole in door and 
and drawer into the eyelet in the turning rack; 
the eggs are rolled back or forth by moving this 
rack 23^ inches either way. Commence turn- 
ing the second day, turn twice daily the first 
five days, after the fifth day turn four times 
daily up to the i6th day, after that twice until 
the hatch is over! Divide the time for turning 
as near equally as you can. 

From the fifth day until the hatch is coming 
off take the egg drawers out with their contents 
once each day and let the eggs cool down to 80 
degrees. Replace them and at the same time 
turn the drawers end for end, and turn the eggs. 
It is preferable to cool them in the evening. 
While cooling leave the egg chambers open for 
ventilation. 

On the fifth day put in half of the moisture 
pans ^ filled with warm water and J^ inch of 
clean sand in the bottom of each pan. On the 



60 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

twelfth day put in the remaining pans filled in the 
same manner. On the i6th day empty all the 
pans of water and refill with fresh warm water. 
Try the eggs the 14th day and see if they are 
moist enough. You do this by taking some of 
the eggs out of different parts of the machine, 
and placing them in warm water about 100 de- 
grees temperature. 15 or 20 eggs will be plenty 
to try. If they sink they are too moist; if they 
float high they are too dry; if they tioat show- 
ing enough of the ecrs" out of the water which 
can be covered by a twenty-five cent silver piece 
they are just right. This will be the average 
only, as some will show more and others less; less 
rather than more. This is a reliable test in all 
cases, as anyone can prove by trying. If the eggs 
float as stated, and a poor hat.ch results, the trouble 
must be looked for elsewhere. It will usually be 
found with the temperature. If you find the eggs 
too moist on the 14th day, take the moisture pans 
out for two or three days, then put them back 
again; and if you find the eggs too day on the 
14th day, place a wet sponge in each end of the 
Ggg drawer. If these sponges get dry in twen- 
ty-four hours, saturate them again and replace. 
If they do not lose any more of their moisture, 
they are not needed any longer. 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 61 

In dry weather you need more moisture than 
you do in wet weather; also in a dry room or dry 
cellar you will need more moisture than in a 
damp cellar. 

When the chicks beg-in to come out keep the 
incubator closed for six hours, then take the chicks 
that are free from the shell and place in the dry- 
ing- box on top of the incubator in flannel that 
should be placed there a few days before, so as 
to be warm. When the chicks are nicely dry, 
put them in the brooder. Give them their first 
feed when they are 24 hours old, and their drink 
when 36 hours old. 

Fill and trim the lamp every 12 hours. Keep 
the burner clean. See that the lamp is all right 
each niorht. 

We certainly prefer the brooder to hens for 
several reasons, the principal one being the ease 
and facility with which a large number of chicks 
can be attended to. Then brooder chicks have 
no lice or mites about them, and none are killed, 
as hens kill them with their clumsy feet. 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



Some Causes for GKicks D\jir\g ir\ 
tKe SKell ir\ tKe IrAcubator. 



There are many causes why chicks die in the 
shell, and some of them are due to the manage- 
ment of the incubator and others are found in 
other sources. I will note a few of them and if 
the operator of an incubator has trouble of this 
kind he will in all probability find the cause 



among tnem. 



Improper ventilation, too much moisture, ov- 
er-heating, running with too low a temperature, 
bad air in cellar or room in which the incubator 
is sitting, too much dampness in the egg chamber; 
too dry an air in the egg chamber, especially 
from the i6th day till the hatch comes off, old 
eo-o-s, over-fed breedincr stock; inbred stock, or 
frojn any cause in which the ^gg has lost its vi- 
tality or fertility. 

Select good eggs, such as you would put un- 
der a hen. The incubator cannot do more than 
the hen, but can make a better success if prop- 
erly attended. 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 63 



WKat Shall I Build? 



The best thing that I can recommend mv read- 
ers as an aid in the poultry business is the com- 
bined incubator and brooder house. . The raising- 
of chickens is of sufficient importance to give it 
a separate building especially fitted and adapted 
for that purpose. In this building you have the 
incubator and brooder, both of which are essen- 
tial, conveniently located to the advantage of 
each other, and are free from the annoyances that 
attend v/hen they are used separately, and tak- 
ing up room that you need for something else. 
The expense is light and the returns will soon 
satisfy the investment. If any accident should 
happen to your lamp endangering the safety of 
things, it is separated where its damage will be 
limited. The chickens can have all desired ad- 
vantages under any conditions of weather, and 
can best be protected from the piratical inclina- 
tions of sixh animals that consider the tender 
chicken a sweet morsel created for their especial 
purpose, 



64 INCUBATOR AND BEOODER. 



f rotect the Weak Oiacs. 



Keep chicks of the same age separated from 
others. This is essential to the successful rais- 
ing of chickens. They need to be separated as 
a matter of protection from the abuse inflicted by 
older ones, also from the piratical Inclinations of 
the older ones. The chicks must have their 
qua.'tity of food, If they would thrive, and it is 
essential they should enjoy their feed undisturbed 
and unharmed. Very often chickens of the same 
age are weakly and they should be protected in 
the same manner. The weakly ones should have 
special advantages In feeding, of which they can 
not be deprived. In this way they will soon be- 
come stronof and able to take c:ire of themselves 
without special attention. In feeding corn chop 
always scald it. When fed dry it will swell in 
the crop and It thus often kills them. Never feed 
on the ground but on a board, and see that the 
board Is cleaned before feeding. 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 65 



I 



r\breecliiAg. 



There is nothing that will depreciate the health 
and quality of poultry as that of allowing them to 
inbreed. The successful stockraiser appreciates 
this fact and zealously guards against it, spend- 
ing money and using all the time and taking all 
the trouble necessary to continually bring new 
life blood in the herd. One of the most success- 
ful ways of getting new blood into the flock is 
to get, from a reliable breeder a setting of eggs 
of your own choice. Another way is to get a 
good healthy male bird and put with the hens. 
Use whatever means at your command, but be 
sure this is accomplished every year. The best 
time of the year to bring new blood into the 
flock is in the fall. At that time you get the 
best of the flock before they are sold off and can 
usually get them cheaper. There should be a 
male bird with every dozen hens, and if it is de- 
sired to keep the kind of breed distinct they 



66 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

should be kept in separate apartments. I nbreed- 
ing impoverishes the flock, lays them more lia- 
ble to disease, and subjects them to all of the 
troubles that come to the poultry yard. 

When new and strange birds are brought in 
they had better be quarantined for a few days, 
until you ascertain their freedom from disease or 
vermin. It is alweys advisable to dust them with 
insect powder. In case there are those that have 
scaly legs, they must be kept apart until doctored, 
as it is a trouble that communicates to others. 
Rub each day with ointment made of equal parts 
of kerosene oil and lard. 



i 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 67 



J^ealtK ir\ Poultry. 



When fowls are judiciously fed and made to 
take exercise, their quarters kept clean and free 
from vermin there will be but little chance for 
disease to get in its work. It is a lack in these 
things that bring on nearly all of the troubles 
with poultry. Poultrymen should know the 
causes of diseases in poultry, and it will be trace- 
able in nearly every case to a neglect in the eat- 
ables given them. When the combs and wattles 
are of a bright red, it indicates a good condition 
of health. On entering the hennery at night, if 
no wheezing sounds can be heard you can rest as- 
sured there are no roupy fowls in the flock. The 
digestive organs indicate a good healthy condi- 
tion when the droppings are hard and portions 
of it white. When the edaes of the combs and 
wattles are purplish red, and their movements 
sluggish the keeper had better see to the feed or 
look for vermin, or guard against cholera. It 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



dem^.nds attention, and with dilig-ence he will 
find the cause. When fowls lie around indiffer- 
ent to their surroundings and show a healthy con- 
dition they are too fat and they are liable to die 
of apoplexy, indigestion or liver complaint, and 
should be compelled to shift for themselves in. 
order that digestion may become more active. 



^ 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



Diseases and tKeir Treatmervt. 



ROUP. 



This disease in chickens corresponds to dis- 
temper in horses. The symptoms in its first 
stages are as follows: A wheezing sound and 
running at the nostrils. As the disease advances 
the head and eyes become swollen, the mouth 
becomes cankered, and they refuse to eat. 
Cases have been noted in which the eyes be- 
came so swollen that they burst from their sock- 
ets. This Is regarded as the most dreaded 
disease among poultry and is the poutryman's 
worst enemy. A bad cold is the forerunner of 
roup. Improper ventilation and letting the 
flock out too early in the morninor are two causes 
of them taking cold. Close watchincr is neces- 
sary to guard against this disease. A cold can 
be cured without much trouble, but roup is dif- 
ficult to handle and harder to get rid of. Be 
constantly on your guard against it. 



70 INOrBATOR AND BROODER. 

As soon as you see the chickens are taking 
cold, make a smoke in the poultry house In the 
evening after they have gone to roost of equal 
parts of pine tar and sulphur. Go in yourself 
while smoking them, so you will not suffocate 
them. They can stand as much of the smoke 
as you can. If they do get the roup separate 
the diseased ones. It is contagious and the 
rest of the poultry must be protected. Treat 
the diseased ones according to the receipe for 
the cure of roup found in the back part of this 
book. 

CHOLERA. 

After the farmer and poultryman more thor- 
oughly understands the diseases of poultry they 
will come to the conclusion that a majority of 
the cases of reported cholera are not such, but 
are troubles caused by lice and indigestion, and 
is caused be eating such seeds as hard grains of 
corn without sufficient grit to thoroughly mas- 
ticate them. I have always made it a rule to 
furnish plenty of gravel for my poultry of all 
ages, or a mortar of lime and sand broken up 
after drying. The chickens are fond of grits, 
requiring surprising quantities at an early age, 
4and thrive the better by having, It especially if 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 71 

they are confined. Furnish plenty to them at 
the start if you would have them grow fast. By 
furnishing a good supply of grits for the poultry 
yard it not only avoids cholera, but many other 
diseases. Examine the gizzard of a healthy 
fowl and it will be found to contain a good sup- 
ply of gravel and other grits. There should be 
in the gizzard more grit than food. Should 
there be more food than grit found it would show 
a congested and unhealthy condition of the giz- 
zard and an inability for this organ to perform 
its proper function. In a diseased condition 
there will sometimes be found no grit whatever 
but a stale mass of undivided food. This shows 
inability of the organs to do their work, and such 
results are for want of plenty of grit in the giz- 
zard. As a result of these conditions there will 
follow indigestion, diseased bowels and liver, and 
unless soon relieved death will follow, and for 
the want of knowledge as to the true facts we 
through our ignorance pronounce it cholera. 
Do not understand me to imply that the use of 
grit will prevent these diseases, as they may be 
produced from other causes. I am thoroughly 
convinced that a free use of grit will keep the 
fowls in such a healthy and vigorous condition 
that disease will find no place in which to en- 



72 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

trench itselt. h,specially pre|.aieci grits are of 
late abundantly found in the market and are 
superior to gravel, and should find a place in 
every poultry house by the side of oyster shells, 
bones, etc., and such like. Fowls are very K)nd 
of these prepared o-rits. 

The symptoms of cholera are as follows: — 
Loss of vigor, showing decided weakness, combs 
turn purple, eyes are dim, stagger as they vvalk, 
the droppings are thin and green. They rarely 
live longer than thirty-six hours. 

The remedy for this disease will be found 
among the recipes in the latter part of this book. 

APOPLEXY OR INDIGESTION. 

This disease is caused from over-feedini:r and 
a failure to get the required exercise. The 
chickens lie around indifferent to the usual 
sounds, yet look healthy, and, in fact, are in ex- 
cellent condition. Indigestion and inactive liver 
follow, and they die. The remedy is to feed in 
limited quantities and force them to hunt and 
scratch more. 

. VERMIN AND SORE THROAT. 

When poultry is infected with lice they are 
restless and constantly picking in their featheis. 



TNCURATOR AND BROODER. 73 

ill young poultry, especially aucKungs, tne throat 
becomes swollen and swallowino- is difficult. 
Remedy lor this will be found in recipe in latter 
part of this book. 



74 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



Some Gavjses of j^oviltrvj Diseases. 



Filthy houses produce lice. 

Jumping from high roosts — bumble foot. 

Draughts and dampness in hennery — roup. 

Impure water, lice and inbreeding — cholera. 

Damp quarters — diarrhea. 

Musty food — canker. 

Inbreeding — consumption. 

Over-feeding — apoplexy. 

Unwholesome diet — indicrestion. 
• Close confinement — oebility. 

Want of exercise— feather and Qgg eating. 

Exposure to cold and dampness — rheumatism. 

High feeding — leg weakness. 

Birds with large combs must not be allowed 
out of doors during severe weather, if it is in- 
tended to have them lay well during winter. A 
frozen comb is a notice to quit laying. Plaster- 
ed walls in the hen house not only keep out cold 
in winter but do not offer hiding places for ver- 
min. A double purpose is thus gained. 



76 



INCUBATOK AND BROODEK. 




INCUBATOR AND BROODETl. 77 



j(itcKer\ GabiPvCt, 



T'^e following description Is of my Kitchen 
Cabinet, and will be found to possess the handi- 
est arrangement for use In the kitchen that has 
ever been gotten up. Its price, delivered free 
on board cars at Arkansas City, Kansas, Is $io. 
Should any one wish to make It themselves the 
following description will be found sufficient to 
enable them to do so. 

The legs are 2^ by 2^ inches by 2 feet 5 
inches long; the square part is gyi Inches. The 
front 7/^ by 6 inches wide and 3 feet 36/8 inches 
between shouk'ers. End rail J^^ by 6 Inches 
by I foot 1 1 inches long, between shoulders. 
Top 2 feet 7 Inches by 4 feet long. Back 20^ 
inches high by 4 feet long. Bread board 185^ 
by 24 inches. Flour bins 2 feet long by gyi 
inches deep, rounded as shown in cut, by 19^ 
inches wide, or front measure. Face of drawer 
214 inches wide. The end strip for slide J^ by 
3}4 inches, with groove }4 hy j^ inch. Center 
strip for drawer slides ^ by 6}4 iin^ches wide„ 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



with i^ inch hard wood nailed and glued on bot- 
tom edge. The large drawer is 185^ inches 
wide by 2 feet long by 3^ inches deep. Top 
of cabinet 8 inches by 4 feet. Cover table with 
a zinc 2 ft. 7 inches wide by four 4 ft. long. The 
edge of wood top is coped out so the zinc can 
be neatly nailed. After drawers are made for 
flour bms, cover the bottom with tin. Make 
cabinet case with drawers as shown in the cut. 
Also finish up back in same way. 




I also make a good Ironing Board that is con- 
venient, substantial and durable. The cut ex- 
plains all that need be. It speaks for itself. 
The price of this board is $2; or I will deliver, 
free on board cars at Arkansas City, Kansas, 
the brace stick and fixtures for $1. 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



Recipes 



AN EXCELLENT WHITEWASH. 

This whitewash is an excellent one for the 
poultry houses and fences, and will not rub off, 
lasting almost as well as ordinary paint. 

It is prepared in the following manner: Slack 
^" bushel of lime in boiling water, rain water is 
preferred; strain this so as to remove all sedi- 
ment; add 2 ft) sulphate of zinc; i Jb common salt; 
^ft) of whiting. Mix to the proper consistency 
with skim milk and apply while hot. If white is 
not desired, add coloring to suit. 

Those who have tried this formula consider it 
good. For use around the- poultry house many 
prefer it to paint because it cleanses and purifies 
the surroundings as well as adding to their ap- 
pearance. This should be applied twice a year. 



80 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

A GOOD FEED TO MAKE HENS LAY IN WINTER. 

A MORNING FEED FOR FIFTY HENS. 



Two quarts corn chop, two quarts oat chop, 
two quarts good wheat bran; take one pint of] 
cracklings, put them in a pan and put enough i 
water in to moisten thoroughly; let this come to 
a boil, then pour it over the feed and stir till all 
is moistened, and feed warm in a trough. Add 
one quart of oil meal to this feed. An occasional 
use of a little red or cayenne pepper is sometimes; 
recommended. Be sure and put a good hand- 
ful of salt in this feed every time. Never let 
your chickens of any age have any water until 
they have eaten their morning feed. Care should 
be taken not to give the feed too hot. Thirty 
minutes after they have eaten their morning feed 
small grain of some kind should be thrown in the 
straw to orive them exercise in the forenoon, this 
litter should be changed twice a week, sweep the 
floor every time you change the litter. 

The noon feed should be wheat, millet or oats. 
This should be scattered in straw or a litter of 
some kind, thus giving them exercise in cold 
weather. Their evening feed should be hard 
parched corn, and feed it good ana warm. For 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 81 



a change boil small potatoes and some beets, 
turnips or carrots and cooked apples; this makes 
a good feed for them occasionally. They should 
have some greens every day in winter. It is a 
good plan to sow some wheat or rye near the 
poultry buildings for the hens to range on, or in 
worst weather you can give them raw cabbage 
or turnips. Gravel, lime and charcoal should 
always be in their reach. Ground bone meal 
and such grrits as the markets afford are oood. 
Get some of them at least. 



A GOOD TONIC TO KEEP YOUR HENS IN GOOD 
HEALTH. 



Sulphate of iron, i ft; sulphuric acid, 2 ounces; 
water, I gallon; mix and dissolve. Dose: Shake 
well and give one tablespoonful to one quart of 
water. Give this twice a week in the drinking 
water. I am not troubled with diseases of any 
kind in my flock, as I use preventatives all the 
time. Be sure and whitewash the poultry house 
twice a year. Scatter slacked lime around in 
every corner and all over the floor once a month, 
and oil the perches once a month with a cheap 
grade of coal oil. 



82 TNCURATOT^ AND BROODER 

THE FIRST FEED FOR LITTLE CHICKS. 



Break an eg-g and beat the white and yellow 
together. Fry or bake it in a pan — not brown, 
but just so it is done. Rub it fine with your 
fingers and feed them with it the first few days: 
every two hours; but the last feed in the evening; 
should be oat meal or millet seed for the first: 
two weeks. After the third day feed with bread I 
made of two quarts of corn meal, one quart ofl 
wheat or graham flour and middlings, one pint; 
cf oat meal, half a teacup of ground fresh meat: 
and 3 eggs and one teaspoonful of baking soda; 
the whole mixed into a stiff dough and baked 
two hours in an oven. This, when cold, is^ 
crumbled and fed every three hours for the first: 
two weeks. 

Then take one quart of wheat bran, one quart 
of corn chop, one pint middHngs, and one table- 
spoonful of salt; stir all together and scald it. Be 
careful not to get it too wet. Put a little oil 
meal in this feed twice a week. 

Be sure and keep plenty of fresh water before 
the chicks all the time, and keep plenty of millet 
seed and small wheat, charcoal and bone meal or 
other grits before them all the time after the first 
week. Give them some greens every day. Boil- 



TXCUBATOR AND BROODER. 83 



ed millet seed makes a nice feed for big or little 
chickens. 

If you go according to this bill you will be all 
right for getting chicks ready for the market in 
eight or nine weeks. Be sure and keep plenty 
of gravel or sand and lime before your chicks 
from the beo^innino-. A chicken 8 weeks old 
should weicrh from i lb to i ^jbs. 



A SURK CURE FOR ROUP. 



Willow charcoal, 3 drachms; powdered ginger, 
4 drachms; capsicum, 3 drachms; powdered rhu- 
barb, 3 drachms; powdered chalk, i V2 ounces; 
gum camphor, i drachm; assafoetida, 4 drachms. 

Take one pint of fine corn meal and dry thor- 
oughly in the baker and mix half of this recipe 
in the pint of meal. This is for 150 fowls. Let 
the fowls get real hungry, put this in pans and 
set in different parts of the house; as they eat it 
they will inhale the odor. If they refuse to eat 
it gather it all up, and after they are all on the 
perches go in and shut the door and sow it 
broadcast over the flock; this will cause them to 
sneeze. With two or three applications of this 
kind you will have no more roup. 



84 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



How TO PREVENT ROUP. — Always have your 
poultry house well ventilated and never let any 
draught draw over your flock. 



GERMAN CHOLERA RECIPE. 



Assafoedtida, i ounce; ginger, i tablespoonful; 
gentian, i tablespoonful; black antimony, i ta- 
blespoonful; red pepper, i tablespoonful; car- 
bonate of iron I tablespoonful Mix all together 
thoroughly. When required for use make intO) 
pills with linseed oil. 

Dose. — Give from one to two pills morning; 
and evening, as the case may be, until the fowl 



is cured 



another cholera RECIPE. 



A simple and effective cure is gained by con- 
finino- the diseased fowls and feeding them cane 
seed, and fresh water. 



LICE. 



To rid a hen house of lice, close up all venti' 
lators and doors. Now take an old iron pot: 
put some red hot coals in it and ^et it in the heij 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 85 

house. Now take ^^ife of rosin, 2 ounces oi 
carbolic acid, mix with ilb of sulphur and j^lb 
of smoking tobacco, wrap these ingredients in a 
paper, drop them in the pot on the red hot coals, 
come out quickly and close the door, leave the 
house closed until it is done smoking. Now 
whitewash once a month. To three gallons of 
whitew^ash use two quarts of salt and half box of 
concentrated lye. Whitwash house, nests and 
pei-ches and once a week wash the perches with 
cheap coal oil and you will have no trouble with 
lice. If you are troubled with mites, disolve ^ 
box of Lewis lye in 2 gallons of hot soapsuds. 
Now take a broom or white wash brush and 
wash the poultry house thoroughly on the inside, 
perches and all, with the lye water for two or 
three mornings in succession, and where you 
can not get with the brush pour some of the lye 
water in. This preparation is death to any- 
thing, be careful to keep it out of the reach of 
children 

Remember one thing, a hen cannot be a suc- 
cessful eo-or machine so lonor as she has to raise 
lice. Furthermore no treatment will cure a sick 
fowl as long as lice or mites are allowed to sap 
her vitality. If desirable to rid the fowls quick- 
ly of lice and mites make a solution of 2 oz. car- 



86 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

bollc acid to a gallon of water. Take the bird 
by the bill and feet and dip it by drawing it back- 
wards through this solution but once. Keep its 
eyes out of the liquid. 

Tobacco stems hung in different parts of the 
poultry house is a preventitive of lice and mites. 



DEATH TO LICE. 



Put J^ % of black sulphur and j4 ft of air 
slacked lime in the dust box, this will keep them 
off and give them a glossy appearance. 

HOW TO BREAK UP A SETTING HEN. 

The desire to incubate comes on as soon as 
each series of eggs is kiyed. As soon as this de- 
sire comes on her, she should be confined in 
comfortable and roomy quarters and be furnish- 
ed plenty of water and stimulating food. She 
will in a short time go to laying again, and thus 
profitably engage the time that would otherwise 
be wasted, and herself made a burden to her 
keeper. 

RECIPE FOR A GOOD REFRESHING DRINK. 



Take 4 lbs of brown sugar, put into 3 pints of 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 87 

water and boil till the scum rises, then skim it 
and set it off to cool. Dissolve ^ft of Tar- 
taric acid in one pint of cold water. Take 2 
tablespoonfuls of Jamaica ginger, tie in a thin 
cloth and drop in a pint of boiling water and 
boil ten minutes.' Take the whites of six fresh 
eorcrs and beat to a fine frost. Dissolve a laree 
teaspoonful of soda in a quart of cold water. 
When all is cold, stir together and flavor with 3 
teaspoonfuls of lemon essence, and put in a jug 
or bottle and cork tight and it will not spoil. 
When wishing to use, shake well and take 3 
tablespoonfuls to i pint of ice water. 

MOCK APPLE PIE. 



2 cups of bread and cracker crumbs. 
I cup of sugar. 

I teaspoon level full of tartaric acid. 
I teaspoonful of cinnamon. 

3 teacups of water. 

Mix all together and divide into three pies. 
The above recipe will make a pie that can 
scarcely be told from one made of green apples. 

DIRECTIONS TO MAKE A COOD BABY FOOD. 



Take one pint of wheat flour and tie in a piece 
of cheese cloth that has been washed and drop 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



in a pot of boiling water and boil one hour, then 
take it out of the cloth and peal the outside off 
and throw it away, now scrape or grate the bal- 
ance and put in a glass jar for use. Keep the 
lid on the jar. To prepare for use for a baby 
under 3 months old, take a level teaspoonful of 
the food and put into a half-pint of cold water 
with a little pinch of salt and set it on the stove 
and stir until it comes to a boil, now pour this in 
a pint of fresh sweet milk with one teaspoonful 
of granulated sugar, and set in boiling water and 
boil 15 minutes, then put in a cold place and just 
warm enouo^h at a time for each feed. This 
amount will last about 12 hours, as it must be 
made fresh every 12 hours. As the child gets 
older you add more food and more milk. Feed 
in a nursing bottle and rinse the bottle every 
time it is used and clean it out with soda every 
morning. Be sure and give the baby cold 
water at any age, as they need it to be healthy., 



THE BEST LINIMENT OUT FOR MAN AND BEAST. 



Turpentine, ^ gallon; gum camphor, 4 oz.; 
mix and let stand until dissolved, then add car- 
bolic acid, 4 oz., and pure petroleum ^ gallon; 
then mix all together and it is ready for use. 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 89 

Always shake well before using. The petrol- 
eum is the best lubricatino- oil of West Viro^inia. 
This liniment will cure the worst case of sweeny 
on a horse by applying warm. 



A SURE CURE FOR CABBACE WORMS. 



Take a sprinkler and sprinkle the cabbage 
with hot w^ater from 150 to 160 degrees. Be- 
gin as soon as the worms make their appearance. 
Two or three sprinklings during the season will 
be sufficient. Water at this temperature will 
not injure the cabbage but will destroy the 
worms. Be sure and keep the water at that de- 
gree of heat. Use a thermometer to test the 
water with. 



TO PRESERVE POSTS. 



Take boiled linseed oil and stir in it pulverized 
charcoal to the consistency of paint, put a coat 
of this over the timber and there is not a man 
that will live to see it rot. 



FURNITURE POLISH. 



I pint of alchohol, i oz. of shellac, ij^ oz. 
copal, I oz. dragon's blood, mix and dissolve, 
apply with sponge or soft brush. 



90 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 



A GOOD CHEAP LINIMENT. 



Boil equal parts ot linseed oil and turpentine. 



IMPERIAL WASHING FLUID. 



I can Lewis' concentrated lye, i oz. of salts of 
tartar, 2 oz. of spirits of ammonia to a gallon of 
rainwater. Dissolve one can of the lye, when 
cold add salts of tartar and ammonia. Half a 
teacup full of this fluid to a boiler full of clothes, 
shaving the ordinary amount of soap. 



A SURE CURE FOR FISTULA WITHOUT CUTTING 
IT OUT. 



Take i oz. of sweet oil, i oz. spirits of tur- 
pentine, I oz. alcohol, I oz. Hartshorn, i oz. 
sasafras oil, i oz. oil ganian, i oz. cedar oil, i 
oz. spike. Mix these well, put in bottle and 
keep well corked. Shake well before using. 

Take hogs lard and grease around the part 
effected by the fistula. Pour some of the lini- 
ment on until the effected part is well saturated. 
Take a piece of old carpet and hold on the dis- 
eased part, and on this hold a hot smoothing 
iron until the horse flinches. This healing is 
done to blister the parts. In 24 hours after the 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 91 

liniment and heat are applied, take a small blade 
of an ordinary pocket knife and puncture the 
blister by entering it at one side and let the 
blade pass under the skin, but not deep into the 
flesh. Now take as much calomel as will lie on 
the large blade of the ordinary pocket knife, 
roll it in some cotton and pass it into the cut 
made in the blister. After putting the calomel 
in crrease around the cut with lard about twice a 
week. If properly cared for it will not leave a 
a scar. This remedy is simple and effective. 
It has been thoroughly tested; it has proved a 
success. 



A SURE CURE FOR SPLINT AND BONE SPAVIN. 



Take i oz. sweet oil, i oz. spirits of turpen- 
tine and 2 oz. creosote, mix and shake well be- 
fore using. Use this twice a day as a liniment. 
Use lard around the outside of the parts effect- 
ed to protect the hair. 

A SURE CURE FOR DIARRHEA IN YOUNG CALVES. 



Tie 2 quarts of wheat flour in a thin sack and 
drop in boiling water and boil one hour, then 
peal the outside off and scrape ^ pint of the 
flour into 2 quarts of sweet milk, then make it 



92 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 

warm enough for the calf to drink, give this 
twice a day until the calf is well. In a very 
bad case you can add 3^ teaspoonful of the es- 
sence of jamacia ginger to each feed. 



DIRECTIONS TO MAKE A GOOD POWDER FOR SORES 
ON HORSE AND MAN 



Get 5 cents worth of alum and put it on a 
hot stove and leave it there until it quits boiling, 
then take off and let cool, then pulverize to a 
fine powder. To use it, wash the sores with cas- 
tile soap and dust the powder on plentifully 
while the sore is wet and it will heal the worst 
sore shoulder in a few days. 



HOW TO SET AN EVERGREEN TREE. 



Dig your pits plenty large so you can spread 
the roots out straight and set the tree about 2 
inches deeper than it was, cover the bottom of 
the pits with small rock, then 2 inches of rich 
soil, a bucket of water, then the tree. Now cov- 
the roots with rich soil and tamp it good; now 
another bucket of water and another layer of 
rock and a layer of earth. Rock and earth 
till you get to the top, and you will never loose 
a tree. 



INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 93 



This book Is copyrighted under the United 
States copyright laws. I consider I am giving 
valuable information such as has not been pre- 
sented by any one to the public and the only 
protection I have is that given by the copy- 
right laws. I trust that every one ordering this 
book will use the information It contains to their 
own advantage. Should vour neiorhbor see the 
ground you have gained in its use let him send 
and get one for himself You will confer a fov- 
or by impressing upon him its value and there- 
by do him good and at the same time oblige 
the author. 

Sent to any address postage paid on receipt 
of $ 1 .00 

Jacob Yost, 

Arkansas City, Kansas. 



INDEX. 



Frontispiece Portrait of Author 

Introductory 5 

Building Material Bills 53 

Chicken House 46 

Chicken House — How to Build 47 

Combined Incubator and Brooder House 38 

Combined Incubator and Brooder House — How to Build, 89 

Diseases and their Treatment 69 

Health in Poultry 67 

Hot Air Brooder 28 

Hot Air Brooder— How to Make 29 

Hot Water Tank 52 

How to Care for an Incubator 57 

Inbreeding 65 

Incubator No. 1 18 

Incubator No. 1 — How to Make 19 

Ironing Board 78 

Kitchen Cabinet 76 

Kitchen Cabinet— How to Make 77 

Protect the Weak Ones .64 

Recipes. — Best Liniment out for Man and Beast 79 

Cholera Cure, German 84 

Cholera Cure 84 

Death to Lice 86 

Excellent Whitewash 79 

First Feed for Little Chicks 82 

Food for Laying Hens in Winter 80 

Furniture Polish 89 



Recipes — Continued. 

Good Cheap Liniment 90 

Good Powder for Sores on Horse or Man 92 

Good Refreshing Drink 86 

How to Set an Evergreen Tree 92 

Imperial Washing Fluid 90 

Mock Apple Pie 87 

Sure Cure for Caggage Worms 89 

Sure Cure for Diarrhea in Young Calves 91 

Sure Cure for Fistula without cutting 90 

Sure Cure for Roup 83 

Sure Cure for Splint and Bone Spavin 61 

Tonic to Keep Hens in Good Health 81 

To Break up a Setting Hen 86 

To Preserve Posts 89 

To Rid a Hen House of Lice 84 

Some Causes for Chicks Dying in the Shell in the Incu- 
bator 62 

Some Causes of Poultry Diseases 74 

The Hen as a Money-maker 7 

What Shall I Build? 63 



RD '111 



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